Bangkok & Northern Thailand

Bangkok grew up from rather watery beginnings -- while the original temples and royal palaces were on dry ground, ordinary residences were on bamboo rafts on the river -- into a modern sprawling city. Old secrets and traditions still run deep within the city, however. The sacred Emerald Buddha, for instance, a tiny figure carved from glowing jade and considered to have miraculous powers, is a bit of a clothes horse. Thailand's kings have amassed a full wardrobe for the figure, including gold shawls for the winter and monastic robes for the rainy season. You can peek into his closet in the Grand Palace complex, which is a bit of a dandy itself -- one of the buildings is called "the foreigner with the Thai hat" because of its classical Western design topped by three-tiered Thai tower. A heartier Buddha resides at Wat Po, whose sacred image is 150 feet long (the Buddha's smile alone is 15 feet long). The picturesque spire of the Temple of the Dawn rises across the river. The colorful flower mosaics on the temple were created using bits of pottery donated by local residents.

Thailand's celebrated cooking combines fresh vegetables, spicy chilies, sweet coconut milk, and splashes of lemon and lime to create outstanding noodle and rice dishes. Sample some of the best at this buffet.

Buddhism entered Thailand at Nakhon Pathom, Thailand's oldest town. The Phra Phathom Chedi (a stupa, or type of temple) commemorates the Buddha's stay here, and is therefore one of the most holy temples in the country. Shaped like an inverted bowl, the temple's spire reaches 400 feet into the air.

During World War II, the Japanese invaders forced Allied prisoners of war to build a railway bridge connecting Thailand to Burma. The conditions and treatment of the prisoners were so harsh that thousands died during the project. Allied bombs destroyed the bridge, but a new bridge is still in operation. The history of the project is chronicled at the Thailand-Burma Railway Centre, and the seven-thousand dead are honored at the War Cemetery.

At this battlefield, national hero King Naresuan freed his kingdom from Burmese invaders. He won the war here through a duel -- on elephants. The Don Chedi monument commemorates this victory with a pagoda and a statue of the young king mounting his elephant.

Travel through the wild beauty of Uthai Thani, where much of the river plains, dense jungle, and mountains are protected wildlife sanctuaries and world natural heritage sites. Nakhon Sawan is the heartland of the country, with rice fields stretching out along the rivers.

Once the capital of a newly united Thailand, Sukhothai had its heyday during the reign of Ramkhamhaeng (c.1278-1317). "Rama the Bold" made the capital city a spiritual and commercial center, establishing Theravada Buddhism throughout his kingdom and introducing the first Thai alphabet. He is generally considered the model for Thailand's system of benevolent rulers. See his city with a local licensed guide, the thick city walls protecting the ruins of the royal palace and 26 temple complexes.

Thai ceramics dating back to the 1300s have been found throughout Southeast Asia, indicating that Thailand was a major producer and exporter of pottery during this time. The Thuriang Kilns in the Si Satchanalai National Park are some of the earliest and most extensive evidence of the high rate of production here. About fifty kilns have been unearthed at this site.

The northernmost point in Thailand, Mae Sai marks the border-crossing into Burma. Tourists from Thailand can obtain day-long visas to cross, but many residents use the crossing daily, living in one country and working in another.

At the meeting point of Burma, Laos, and Thailand, the Golden Triangle earned its glowing nickname from a shady activity -- it was once the centre of opium production in the region. Now tourism is the only thing refined here; souvenir vendors and bright signs announcing the confluence of the three nations and Ruak and Mekong Rivers create a lively, friendly atmosphere. Ascend the nearby hill to the temple of Wat Phrathat Phu Khao, which provides an unparalleled view of the spot.

An Asian Stonehenge? On the top of Doi Tong, the hill rising from Chiang Rai, stands a large stone structure laying out the Buddhist view of the universe. Other views abound on the hill, including a beautiful vista up the Kok River and the magnificent Mae Fah Luang Garden. Established by the Princess Mother (the king's mother, also known affectionately as The Royal Grandmother), the gardens showcase some of Thailand's most beautiful flowers. The Princess Mother restored much of the surrounding area as well, helping promote sustainable agriculture throughout the region.

Tanks, lumberjacks, royal pets -- Thailand's elephants have held many roles throughout the country's history, from ferrying soldiers into battle to assisting loggers in taking down trees. See some of their unique skills at the Mae Sa Elephant Camp, where the seemingly lumbering animals move surprisingly gracefully as they maneuver logs and other items with their trunks. Do your own maneuvering on a bamboo raft trip, then soar higher than an elephant's eye up to the spectacular Wat Phra That Doi. The temple was built in 1383 after a series of odd events. A monk from a neighboring town followed a vision of a fire, which led him to a bone from the Buddha. He presented the bone to the king, and the bone split in two. The king declared that one half of the bone should therefore be placed on a white elephant, and the elephant should be followed. The elephant walked up the mountain, trumpeted, and died, and the king had the temple built at that spot to house the sacred bone.

Like breakfast in bed, without the bed. Khantoke meals are served on a small platter, and diners sit on the floor around the tray to enjoy traditional northern Thai specialties like fried bananas, soups, and curries. You'll also see traditional Thai dancing, once performed in Thailand's royal courts. Unlike much Western dancing, here the dancers' hand movements are very important, and props like lighted candles and scarves help highlight those movements.

Is a sigh really just a sigh? The Wat Phra Singh's main image of the Sighing Buddha has become Chiang Mai's city symbol, and every year the Buddha is bathed in jasmine-scented water. (Legend claims that the image is 1500 years old, but scholars are unconvinced.) An unusual and elaborately carved repository in the temple keeps sacred texts safe from water -- jasmine-scented or otherwise -- and other damage. The 14th-century Wat Suan Dok houses the ashes of many of Chiang Mai's rulers, and its intricate spires jut imposingly into the sky. Step away from the ruling class and learn about Thailand's mountain people at the Tribal Museum, which presents the clothing, customs, and culture of the ten or so groups that inhabit Thailand's northern mountains.